In 1876 J M Smith appeared to own all of Section 85 of Fitzroy. This area had the boundaries of Brunswick St (W), Reilly St / Alexandra Pde (N), Smith St (E) and Rose St (S). Most of the southern part of Fitzroy had been subdivided and Smith’s lot was one of the last to go, probably owing to the problems with drainage along Reilly Street and the fact that the area was marshy and boggy. The map below shows the start of the subdivision of this area.
In 1879, some development was occurring in the area, but the area bordered by Napier (W), Reilly St (N), George (E) and Cecil (S) was still a vacant block. The area was still known to have drainage issues and as a result of a complaint by Mr. Mulready (a ratepayer), Mr Smith was summoned to the local board of health. Mr Smith was able to demonstrate that no effort or expense had been spared and that some of the land (of which he still owned 30 acres) had recently been built upon, the ground having been gradually filled up to the level of the surrounding streets. The Board were satisfied and Mr Tucker (Chair) sitting next to Mr Smith, made a cheeky suggestion that perhaps, Mr Smith, “may feel inclined to present the council of Fitzroy, on behalf of the citizens, with one of the blocks of land surrounded by four streets, for the purpose of making it a reserve. Mr Smith met the proposal in the most frank and liberal manner and amid the cheers of a large number of ratepayers present, stated his willingness to comply with the request”. Mr Smith was true to his word and the land and those filling the land to make it usable were diverted to the Board of Health to finish the work. The Council noted that it would reserve some money for fencing and planting in the next year’s budget and that the land would likely be used as a wood market for the convenience of the inhabitants of the north part of Fitzroy. The gift was valued at 1,000 pounds. (The Age, 23 July 1879, p.3, A Gift to Fitzroy).
By 1881, the land was known as ‘Smith’s Reserve’ and was planted with Queensland Figs, being selected as being most suitable to low lying land. Alexandra Parade (still better known at the time as the Reilly st drain), was also planted from end to end with Pinus Insignia and the Moreton Bay Fig. The planting was said to greatly improve the appearance of the place (The Argus, 28 Oct 1881, p.10, Fitzroy Improvements).
But its life as Reserve was threatened not more than four years to the day when it was proposed by the Railway Commissioner and the Railway Department that the Whittlesea railway line should be brought directly via Edinburgh Gardens to the Heidelberg Road (now Queen’s Parade) with a station for passengers at that site and a goods station on Smith’s Reserve. (The Herald, 28 Oct 1885, p.3, Municipal Mems). It is unlikely this went ahead and the ever went ahead as the 1900 MMBW plans don’t show it, however the debate to open a market in 1894 seems to have had more success, but not on this location, instead it was built in the reserve on the corner of Queen’s Parade and Alexandra Pde.(Mercury and Weekly Courier, 12 Jul 1894, p.2, Fitzroy).
But there is much conjecture to the location of the “Reserve” in the 1890s. In 1893, the tender of James Wilson & co., was accepted for raising the fences around Smith’s reserve at 5pounds 7s 6d for labor only; and for the fence at the city yard (Mercury and Weekly Courier, 7 Sep 1893, p3, Fitzroy). This I believe was around the ‘Reserve’ as located on Alexandra Parade, but in 1894, there are lots of reports of ‘Smith’s Reserve’ being used as the sports ground for Junior Cricket with Fitzroy La Mascotte and Fitzroy Juniors sharing the ground. The references here are to the Reserve being ‘just off Smith Street’ and in some cases, it is just referenced as Smith Street. I believe that the whole undeveloped land in the area was simply being called ‘Smith’s Reserve’, but the site of the Cricket pitch was actually the block of land bordered by George St (w), Westgarth (n), Gore (e) and Rose (s). This land was still vacant in 1900 when the MMBW map was drawn.
The photo below demonstrates how this was used. The photo is taken from Gore Street looking west along Westgarth Street. You can see the fielder on the right standing on Westgarth Street which must have been stopped for the match. The houses on the left of this image are the six houses that fronted George Street, and on the right, you can see right through to Napier St.
The Reserve was not only used for cricket during this time, but was also used often for bonfires, fireworks and celebrations, the first of which was the celebration of the Queen’s Birthday in May 1900. The papers describe it as “the bonfire contained about 20 tons of wood well saturated with tar and kerosene, and lit up not only the great vacant space of Smith’s reserve, but the whole central portion of the city. It was lit at 7 o’clock by the Mayor, but owing to the heavy rain in the afternoon it was quite half an hour before it was fully ablaze. Then in was a sight well worth seeing, and drew an immense crowd, not less than 20,000 people being crowded around it, many of the youngsters getting their first sight of a bonfire. Not till near midnight did it die down. Fireworks were almost impossible to get during the week, and it was only by scouring the City, beating up the ship-chandlers and the Chinese quarter that the really creditable display given was rendered possible.” (Fitzroy City Press, 25 May 1900, p.3, Relief of Mafeking). And given the success of this event, it was repeated in May 1901 where the children proceeded in a torch light procession from Victoria Parade to the ‘festive scene’ (The Herald, 14 May 1901, p.4, Fitzroy Children’s Treat) (The Age, 13 May 1901, p.7, Fitzroy) and again in June 1902 for the King’s coronation when a ‘monster bonfire’ was lit on the reserve. (Fitzroy City Press, 20 Jun 1902, p.2, The Coronation, Fitzroy Programme).
By 1910 the cricket games were less frequent and in 1914 there was a recommendation at council to build a playground for children on Smith’s Reserve (the site that exists today). (Fitzroy City Press, 9 May 1914, p.3 Fitzroy City Council) and later that year after several new requests to play cricket on the ‘reserves’, the council heard from the Public Works Committee that it “is not desirable that cricket matches should be played on vacant allotments at Smiths reserve, Alexandra Parade and Park street, owing to the danger to the public and the risk of destroying shrubs and trees” (The Herald, 31 Oct 1914, p.14, Cricket pitches in park).
In 1917 references to the Reserve appear to be just to the land given by J.M. Smith, one of which is to build a “Technical School” in Fitzroy. Those for the school argued the site offered in Holden St, Fitzroy North was not central enough and requested that “Smith’s Reserve” be provided for this purpose, noting the difficulties with the land (presumably drainage) and the need to get the consent of Mr. Smith’s heirs / an Act of Parliament. (Fitzroy City Press, 24 Mar 1917, p.2, Fitzroy City Council). At the following meeting in April 1917 the proposal was rejected (Fitzroy City Press, 7 April 1917, p.2, Fitzroy City Council).
In 1918, the Combined Schools Committee asked to be able to use the reserve for children to play football and cricket on. A committee was established by the Council, and the residents around the area moved to reject the proposal, organising a petition signed by 32 rate payers in the area. (Fitzroy City Press, July and November).
The discussion was quelled for now but re-emerged 11 years later to find suitable spots for children’s playgrounds, cricket pitches and tennis courts. Sites in Birkenhead Street, Church St, Smith’s Reserve, Alexandra Pde/Fitzroy street and Edinburgh Gardens were suggested. (The Age, 26 Sep 1929, p.15, Fitzroy Playgrounds). It is likely that Edinburgh Gardens was chosen, but it wasn’t the end of the battle for Smith’s Reserve, when in late 1953 the Tramways Board started to set up their store yards for the construction of the Smith Street Tramline. Many protested the change, arguing this was one of the only playgrounds in the area and served four schools in Fitzroy as a playground for children (The Age, 3 Dec 1952, p.15, Fitzroy protests) and the day following the work was put on hold and in the following week 396 ratepayers signed a petition. The Council supported the residents and the store yard used another site. (The Age, 8 Dec 1953, p.5, Fitzroy residents win park battle).
The land is still council land today and probably represented the only reserve in what is Fitzroy today with Condell Reserve and Atherton Gardens both being created as part of the Slum Reclamation projects in the late 1960s and early 1970s. It is a story that reminds us that this land was given to the citizens of Fitzroy by J M Smith and belongs to Fitzroy’s citizens and the council hopefully will continue to protect and preserve it for the purpose for which it was given.